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A coal-cart was coming downhill, clanking in the rain. Field started
upwards, past the big but weary-looking drapers and clothing shops, the
post-office, into the little market-place of forlorn space, where Sam Black was
peering out of the door of the Sun, that called itself an inn, not a pub, and
where the commercial travellers stayed, and was bowing to Lady Chatterley's
car.
The church was away to the left among black trees. The car slid on downhill,
past the Miners' Arms. It had already passed the Wellington, the Nelson, the
Three Tuns, and the Sun, now it passed the Miners' Arms, then the Mechanics'
Hall, then the new and almost gaudy Miners' Welfare and so, past a few new
`villas', out into the blackened road between dark hedges and dark green
fields, towards Stacks Gate.
Tevershall! That was Tevershall! Merrie England! Shakespeare's England! No,
but the England of today, as Connie had realized since she had come to live in
it. It was producing a new race of mankind, over-conscious in the money and
social and political side, on the spontaneous, intuitive side dead, but dead.
Half-corpses, all of them: but with a terrible insistent consciousness in the
other half. There was something uncanny and underground about it all. It was an
under-world. And quite incalculable. How shall we understand the reactions in
half-corpses? When Connie saw the great lorries full of steel-workers from
Sheffield, weird, distorted smallish beings like men, off for an excursion to
Matlock, her bowels fainted and she thought: Ah God, what has man done to man?
What have the leaders of men been doing to their fellow men? They have reduced
them to less than humanness; and now there can be no fellowship any more! It is
just a nightmare.
She felt again in a wave of terror the grey, gritty hopelessness of it all.
With such creatures for the industrial masses, and the upper classes as she
knew them, there was no hope, no hope any more. Yet she was wanting a baby, and
an heir to Wragby! An heir to Wragby! She shuddered with dread.
Yet Mellors had come out of all this!--Yes, but he was as apart from it all
as she was. Even in him there was no fellowship left. It was dead. The
fellowship was dead. There was only apartness and hopelessness, as far as all
this was concerned. And this was England, the vast bulk of England: as Connie
knew, since she had motored from the centre of it.
The car was rising towards Stacks Gate. The rain was holding off, and in the
air came a queer pellucid gleam of May. The country rolled away in long
undulations, south towards the Peak, east towards Mansfield and Nottingham.
Connie was travelling South.
As she rose on to the high country, she could see on her left, on a height
above the rolling land, the shadowy, powerful bulk of Warsop Castle, dark grey,
with below it the reddish plastering of miners' dwellings, newish, and below
those the plumes of dark smoke and white steam from the great colliery which
put so many thousand pounds per annum into the pockets of the Duke and the other
shareholders. The powerful old castle was a ruin, yet it hung its bulk on the
low sky-line, over the black plumes and the white that waved on the damp air
below.
A turn, and they ran on the high level to Stacks Gate. Stacks Gate, as seen
from the highroad, was just a huge and gorgeous new hotel, the Coningsby Arms,
standing red and white and gilt in barbarous isolation off the road. But if you
looked, you saw on the left rows of handsome `modern' dwellings, set down like
a game of dominoes, with spaces and gardens, a queer game of dominoes that some
weird `masters' were playing on the surprised earth. And beyond these blocks of
dwellings, at the back, rose all the astonishing and frightening overhead
erections of a really modern mine, chemical works and long galleries, enormous,
and of shapes not before known to man. The head-stock and pit-bank of the mine
itself were insignificant among the huge new installations. And in front of
this, the game of dominoes stood forever in a sort of surprise, waiting to be
played.
This was Stacks Gate, new on the face of the earth, since the war. But as a
matter of fact, though even Connie did not know it, downhill half a mile below
the `hotel' was old Stacks Gate, with a little old colliery and blackish old
brick dwellings, and a chapel or two and a shop or two and a little pub or two.
But that didn't count any more. The vast plumes of smoke and vapour rose
from the new works up above, and this was now Stacks Gate: no chapels, no pubs,
even no shops. Only the great works', which are the modern Olympia with temples
to all the gods; then the model dwellings: then the hotel. The hotel in
actuality was nothing but a miners' pub though it looked first-classy.
Even since Connie's arrival at Wragby this new place had arisen on the face
of the earth, and the model dwellings had filled with riff-raff drifting in
from anywhere, to poach Clifford's rabbits among other occupations.
The car ran on along the uplands, seeing the rolling county spread out. The
county! It had once been a proud and lordly county. In front, looming again and
hanging on the brow of the sky-line, was the huge and splendid bulk of Chadwick
Hall, more window than wall, one of the most famous Elizabethan houses. Noble
it stood alone above a great park, but out of date, passed over. It was still
kept up, but as a show place. `Look how our ancestors lorded it!'
That was the past. The present lay below. God alone knows where the future
lies. The car was already turning, between little old blackened miners'
cottages, to descend to Uthwaite. And Uthwaite, on a damp day, was sending up a
whole array of smoke plumes and steam, to whatever gods there be. Uthwaite down
in the valley, with all the steel threads of the railways to Sheffield drawn
through it, and the coal-mines and the steel-works sending up smoke and glare
from long tubes, and the pathetic little corkscrew spire of the church, that is
going to tumble down, still pricking the fumes, always affected Connie
strangely. It was an old market-town, centre of the dales. One of the chief
inns was the Chatterley Arms. There, in Uthwaite, Wragby was known as Wragby,
as if it were a whole place, not just a house, as it was to outsiders: Wragby
Hall, near Tevershall: Wragby, a `seat'.
The miners' cottages, blackened, stood flush on the pavement, with that
intimacy and smallness of colliers' dwellings over a hundred years old. They
lined all the way. The road had become a street, and as you sank, you forgot
instantly the open, rolling country where the castles and big houses still
dominated, but like ghosts. Now you were just above the tangle of naked
railway-lines, and foundries and other `works' rose about you, so big you were
only aware of walls. And iron clanked with a huge reverberating clank, and huge
lorries shook the earth, and whistles screamed.
Yet again, once you had got right down and into the twisted and crooked
heart of the town, behind the church, you were in the world of two centuries
ago, in the crooked streets where the Chatterley Arms stood, and the old pharmacy,
streets which used to lead Out to the wild open world of the castles and
stately couchant houses.
But at the corner a policeman held up his hand as three lorries loaded with
iron rolled past, shaking the poor old church. And not till the lorries were
past could he salute her ladyship.
So it was. Upon the old crooked burgess streets hordes of oldish blackened
miners' dwellings crowded, lining the roads out. And immediately after these
came the newer, pinker rows of rather larger houses, plastering the valley: the
homes of more modern workmen. And beyond that again, in the wide rolling
regions of the castles, smoke waved against steam, and patch after patch of raw
reddish brick showed the newer mining settlements, sometimes in the hollows,
sometimes gruesomely ugly along the sky-line of the slopes. And between, in
between, were the tattered remnants of the old coaching and cottage England,
even the England of Robin Hood, where the miners prowled with the dismalness of
suppressed sporting instincts, when they were not at work.
England, my England! But which is my England? The stately homes of
England make good photographs, and create the illusion of a connexion with the
Elizabethans. The handsome old halls are there, from the days of Good Queen
Anne and Tom Jones. But smuts fall and blacken on the drab stucco, that has
long ceased to be golden. And one by one, like the stately homes, they were
abandoned. Now they are being pulled down. As for the cottages of
England--there they are--great plasterings of brick dwellings on the hopeless
countryside.
`Now they are pulling down the stately homes, the Georgian halls are going.
Fritchley, a perfect old Georgian mansion, was even now, as Connie passed in
the car, being demolished. It was in perfect repair: till the war the
Weatherleys had lived in style there. But now it was too big, too expensive,
and the country had become too uncongenial. The gentry were departing to
pleasanter places, where they could spend their money without having to see how
it was made.'
This is history. One England blots out another. The mines had made the halls
wealthy. Now they were blotting them out, as they had already blotted out the
cottages. The industrial England blots out the agricultural England. One
meaning blots out another. The new England blots out the old England. And the
continuity is not Organic, but mechanical.
Connie, belonging to the leisured classes, had clung to the remnants of the
old England. It had taken her years to realize that it was really blotted out
by this terrifying new and gruesome England, and that the blotting out would go
on till it was complete. Fritchley was gone, Eastwood was gone, Shipley was
going: Squire Winter's beloved Shipley.
Connie called for a moment at Shipley. The park gates, at the back, opened
just near the level crossing of the colliery railway; the Shipley colliery
itself stood just beyond the trees. The gates stood open, because through the
park was a right-of-way that the colliers used. They hung around the park.
The car passed the ornamental ponds, in which the colliers threw their
newspapers, and took the private drive to the house. It stood above, aside, a
very pleasant stucco building from the middle of the eighteenth century. It had
a beautiful alley of yew trees, that had approached an older house, and the
hall stood serenely spread out, winking its Georgian panes as if cheerfully.
Behind, there were really beautiful gardens.
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